Horticultural Calendar

January

• Time for garden planning, crop rotation, and seed/plant ordering for the new season. (see: When to Plant Vegetables in South Bend, IN – Garden.org, HO-186-W: Indiana Vegetable Planting Calendar)
• Control woody invasive species, such as honeysuckle, bittersweet, burning bush, and privet by cutting the plants back to the crown or just above ground level and treating the stump with the recommended herbicide. Homeowners can access over-the-counter products specifically designed for non-commercial use. It is important to treat the invasive stumps, or the plant will come back with even more branching. (see:Calendar+of+Control+2024+update.pdf)
• Finish sowing any native seeds that require outdoor winter stratification by mid-month to ensure proper cold day duration. (see: Prairie Moon Nursery: How to Germinate Native Seeds)
• Harvest dormant cuttings of native shrubs, such as elderberry, dogwood species, buttonbush, ninebark, viburnum species, and willow species to use as erosion control materials on any steep slopes of large properties and/or plant in ground or pot up to grow as new shrubs for Spring. Harvest dormant cuttings of hardwood ornamentals, such as hydrangea, grape, and forsythia to pot up for new Spring plants. (see: 14 – Live Fascines.pdf, Propagation of Trees, Shrubs, and Vines from Hardwood Cuttings | Yard and Garden)
• Take time to enjoy houseplants! Most are easy to propagate from herbaceous cuttings. There are houseplants for every skill level and light requirement. Visit your local Conservatory to enjoy some greenery. (see: A Beginner’s Guide to Houseplant Propagation | Gardener’s Path, House Plants Encyclopedia A-Z)
• Brush up on your botany/horticulture skills with some reading materials or e-learning. The Indiana Accredited Horticulturist Program study materials provide a valuable source of information. (see: Chapter 01 – Basic Principles of Plant Structure, Growth and Development | Purdue University Indiana Accredited Horticulturist Program)
• Become acquainted with the native and invasive species in our area with information from the Soil and Water Conservation Districts, Indiana Invasive Species Council, DNR, USDA, Dept. of Forestry, and local organizations such as the Indiana Native Plant Society and Wild Ones. Double check to make sure any ornamentals you plan to purchase are not on the invasive species list and try to make sure the native plants you purchase are within their native habitat range using BONAP (The Biota of North America Program). (see: Indiana Invasive Plant List – INPS, SICIM Homepage, bonap.org)

 

February

• Late February is the beginning of pruning season for most small trees and shrubs, including fruit trees. (Larger trees should usually also be pruned while dormant, by a professional, though there are some exceptions.) Fruit trees and specimen trees/shrubs should see no more than 3-5 large, healthy branches pruned per year. Always cut any dead, diseased, or rubbing branches when you see them, though. Shrubs with many smaller branches can be cut back down to the ground to reshape, if necessary, rather than cutting a small amount at a time. These usually handle the stress of being cut back very well, if they are dormant. There are a few species of small trees and shrubs that flower on “old wood” and should be pruned right after they are finished flowering. Lilac and some viburnum are examples. We would wait until around May-June to prune these species. (see: Arborist Advice: Why Should You Prune Your Trees  During the Dormant Season? | Arbor Day Foundation, Pruning The Home Orchard – Indiana Yard and Garden – Purdue Consumer HorticulturePurdue University Indiana Yard and Garden – Purdue Consumer Horticulture, 09 Prune Your Trees Tips Sheet.indd, When to Prune: The Garden Pruning Calendar – Spotts Garden Service)
• The trimmings from cuttings, provided they are not infected with disease, can be used for a variety of projects. Stacking logs or branches in a corner of the yard can provide valuable habitat for insects and small mammals. Wattle fences can be crafted out of the more linear branches. This is also true for certain woody invasives, such as honeysuckle. Cut the tops and treat the stems, then pile some of the cut tops in a wooded area for the same effect. (see: Dead Wood for Wildlife)
• Late February is also a good time to start seeds indoors, if you have the space or in a greenhouse. Spring-sown native plants and long season vegetable crops such as tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant all benefit from getting a head start inside, typically 6-8 weeks before planting outside. (see: Prairie Moon Nursery: How to Germinate Native Seeds, When to Start Seeds in Zone 6, Frost Dates: First and last frost dates for South Bend Ap, IN – Garden.org, How and When to Start Seeds Indoors | The Old Farmer’s Almanac, The Beginner’s No-Fail Guide to Starting Seeds Indoors – Garden Betty)

 

 

March

• Continue pruning late-winter/early-spring woody species until they start to leaf out. Once they leaf out, get your last cuts in, but refrain from taking off any large limbs. (see: Arborist Advice: Why Should You Prune Your Trees  During the Dormant Season? | Arbor Day Foundation, Pruning The Home Orchard – Indiana Yard and Garden – Purdue Consumer HorticulturePurdue University Indiana Yard and Garden – Purdue Consumer Horticulture, 09 Prune Your Trees Tips Sheet.indd, When to Prune: The Garden Pruning Calendar – Spotts Garden Service, How to Prune Raspberries | Yard and Garden)
• Sow more of your fast-growing garden vegetables, light-sensitive natives like Butterfly Weed, and any recommended annual flowers indoors. (see: Prairie Moon Nursery: How to Germinate Native Seeds, When to Start Seeds in Zone 6, Frost Dates: First and last frost dates for South Bend Ap, IN – Garden.org, How and When to Start Seeds Indoors | The Old Farmer’s Almanac, The Beginner’s No-Fail Guide to Starting Seeds Indoors – Garden Betty)
• March – May is the optimal time to sow native seed outdoors in the Spring. Spring seeding of natives is beneficial to warm-season grasses, self-seeding annuals, and quick growing natives. Many perennial flowering and wetland plants will benefit from a Fall sowing, so that they may have a winter stratification. Consider splitting the seeding into two parts, if appropriate. Remember to properly prepare the site first; it will save a lot of hassle in the long run. (see: Native Seed Establishment Best Management Practices – Natural Communities LLC, Six Steps to a Successful Seeding – Native Plants and Ecosystem Services)
• Trees and shrubs can be planted late March through April, once the soil is workable. Avoid planting trees or shrubs too late into May, unless a very reliable watering schedule can be followed. (see: Planting and transplanting trees and shrubs | UMN Extension, The Growing Guide – Stark Bro’s)
• Time to mow established native prairies! If conditions are foreseen to be too wet, try to mow earlier than later too far into April. (see: Prairie Management: Cutting or Mowing as a Management Tool – Michigan Wildflower Farm, Five Steps to Successful Prairie Establishment, Planting and maintaining a prairie garden | UMN Extension, Native Seeding Instructions)
• Look for signs of the first weeds of Spring. Once temperatures are above 55F for a week at a time, a pre-emergent herbicide may be needed if your site or property necessitates it. Large sites with expansive ornamental beds are often difficult to keep up with manual weeding and require chemical assistance. Most homeowners can take care of basic agronomic weeds by hand and won’t require chemical. Unfortunately, invasive species and (native) poisonous plants almost always require some sort of chemical intervention to completely eradicate. Of course, never use a pre-emergent in seeded areas. (see: Preemergence Herbicide Application Timings: Pros and Cons | Integrated Crop Management)
• Late March through mid-April is a good time to add bark mulch to garden and landscape beds. If you’ve opted to “leave the leaves,” they can either be mulched over if previously shredded or in a light layer or moved to the side of the yard to wait for emerging insects. Too thick a leaf layer can suffocate some plants, especially plants that are not tolerant of woodland conditions. In general, mulching promotes water retention, breaks down to improve soil structure and drainage, and can be aesthetically pleasing. Be careful not to over-mulch, especially around the crowns of trees and shrubs. If you’re up for it, consider edging a landscape or garden bed to keep turf from invading and to create crisp lines. (see: A Warning When Using Fallen Leaves As Mulch – Horticulture, Mulching Landscape Trees, Tips, tricks on how to properly edge a garden bed, what tools to use, Using Mulch in the Garden | Yard and Garden)
• There are certain herbaceous (non-woody) ornamental (non-native) plants that are better left whole for Winter, then cutback in the early Spring before they start to leaf out too much. (see: Cut Back Perennials Now or Later? – Indiana Yard and Garden – Purdue Consumer HorticulturePurdue University Indiana Yard and Garden – Purdue Consumer Horticulture, Perennial Pruning Tips: When to Cut Back Perennials & How Far | Davey Tree)
• When temperatures are above freezing (but below 90F), horticultural oil can be applied to fruit trees to mitigate the potential for insect pest damage. Spraying oil at the “Summer” rate is often recommended for beginners. Spray when the plant is about to break dormancy or wait until it has fully leafed out. Horticulture oils are commonly used as organic pest control on fruit trees and vines. (see: Using horticultural oils on landscape plants – MSU Extension)
• Young, establishing trees can be fertilized March through May, possibly again in the Fall, though overfertilization in the Fall can cause new growth to be damaged by freezing temps. (see: What, When and Why: The Best Way to Fertilize Trees | Davey blog | Davey Tree)

 

April

• Finish planting trees and shrubs for the Spring. (see: Planting and transplanting trees and shrubs | UMN Extension, The Growing Guide – Stark Bro’s)
• Continue to work on establishing any native seedings. (see: Seed establishment techniques and seeding specifications)
• Continue to weed early agronomic (regular) annual and perennial weeds, and watch for early invasive species, such as honeysuckle, garlic mustard, and poison hemlock. Honeysuckle is often the first “green” of the Spring in woodland borders and disturbed areas. Some of these can be pulled by hand, but some involve chemical treatment, especially if on a larger property. (see: DNR: Nature Preserves: Invasive Plant Species)
• Mid-April to mid-May (later if temps stay cool) are good times to take a walk and check out woodland ephemeral plants, such as Virginia bluebells, Shooting Star, Mayapple, Dutchman’s Britches, and Trilliums. (see: Bendix Woods and the local County parks; they usually have some sort of plant walk or guided tour each Spring, Spring Ephemerals for Residential Gardens).
• If your planting site conditions become too hot or dry quickly in the year, consider planting dormant herbaceous stock, which is fully rooted stock overwintered from the previous year. The downside of dormant stock is that nurseries cannot always guarantee that it will break dormancy and sometimes do not want to sell. If you find a Fall sale and want to overwinter the plants yourself, that is an option. There are several species of native and ornamental plants that are purposefully sold as bareroot, as well. This gives them a longer season of cooler, wetter weather to root-in before the heat of the Summer. An incredibly wet Spring can sometimes upset these plans, though. (see: Planting Bare Root Perennials – Garden.org)
• Plant bareroot ephemerals now until mid-May. Order from a reputable source and DO NOT disturb plants in the wild or trespass. (see: Native-Spring-Ephemerals-ADA-Accessible-Version.pdf, Native Spring Ephemerals – Smithsonian Gardens)
• Cutback the previous year’s native garden plants down to 4-8” stems to allow overwintering insects to emerge in May. (see: Cutting Back and Deadheading Native Perennials, Ecological Garden Maintenance – INPS)
• Finish any mulching that needs to be done.
• Repair any outdoor structures.
• Put rain barrels back out after winter storage unless a hard freeze is expected. I have noticed that even with drainage hoses open, they can still collect a lot of water and experience freeze warping. (see: Rain Barrel Basics: Why, How to Set One Up, and Winterizing – Minnesota State Horticultural Society, Rain Barrel Watering Systems: How To Install Them & More!)
• Early April – plant cool season vegetables outside. This can be done late March are temps are warm enough. (see: Planting Calendar for South Bend, IN | Almanac.com)
• If necessary, add organic fertilizer to perennial vegetable beds, such as Asparagus, Rhubarb, Strawberry, and Horseradish. Mid-April to mid-May is a good time to plant these species if you would like to establish some beds. Also, plant potatoes in April. (see: Zone-6-Vegetable-Planting-Chart.pdf)

 

May

• IT IS NOW TIME TO PLANT MOST EVERYTHING! Plant annuals flowers, herbs, and vegetables as well as first year perennials that have just hardened off. Plan to plant the areas that are the dryest and/or hardest to irrigate first, then move on to areas that hold more moisture or are easier to reach with a hose. (see: Virginia Cooperative Extension Gardener Handbook, How Hardy Are Your Annuals?, What-to-Grow-in-Zone-6.pdf)
• Keep up with weeding and watering. Make sure to water newly planted garden beds, perennials, and turf about once a day until it’s established (usually a few weeks). Then check it regularly.
• Try to get most planting done between May 1 – early June unless you have a consistent source of watering. By mid-June we start to experience high temps and rain can be sparse. If water is readily available, the planting season can extend later into June. Make sure to keep up with the watering, though!
• Keep tackling invasive species.
• Now is a good time to revisit any erosion control methods (i.e. cuttings/fascines) planted in the Winter and see if more measures are needed. Add some plugs/plants and more blanketing if necessary. Add seed in the Fall if it is now determined that seeding is needed. (see: Preventing Erosion | Cooperative Extension | University of Delawareunl.edu/publication/g1307/2013/html/view, ErosionControl.indd)
• Cut back new native seedings/prairies to 4-6” when they reach 12”. This helps cut the tops off annual weeds to keep them from seeding. Continue this practice throughout the growing season, sometimes until October, depending on the weather. (see: Native Landscape Care Calendar – Grow Native!, Planting and maintaining a prairie garden | UMN Extension)
• Plant containers.
• Stake tomatoes and peppers; add trellis for any vining vegetables that need to be kept off the ground, or for space saving or ease of reach.
• Experiment with different types of planters, garden borders, and décor.
• Set out sources of water for insects and birds.
• Start fertilizing any ornamental landscape or vegetable crops in need of extra nutrients. Turf grass fertilization can start late April or early May. Applying a slow-release fertilizer is usually sufficient for the average home landscape. Proper mulching and soil care can eliminate the need for aggressive fertilization, but sometimes establishing landscape plants may need a boost. Use compost or organic fertilizers for vegetable gardens. Native gardens shouldn’t need fertilizer. (see: A review on slow-release fertilizer: Nutrient release mechanism and agricultural sustainability – ScienceDirect, The Science Behind Slow-Release Fertilizers: How They Work and Why They Matter – Salisbury Greenhouse)
• Collect seed and/or dig bareroot Spring ephemerals. (see: The Secrets of Spring Ephemerals in the Woods | Chicago Botanic Garden, Spring Ephemerals: Tips for Gardening with These Magical Plants – Horticulture)
• Local Farmers Markets are typically held May through October. There are many markets in St. Joseph and surrounding counties. Consider shopping local to support small businesses and to get more in-depth knowledge about the products you’re purchasing.

 

June

• Finish up planting before temperatures reach the mid-80’s; after that, the plants are more susceptible to drying out and don’t grow as rapidly. Limit fertilizing during summer months for the same reason, as it can cause salt burn. (see: Temperature Stress In Plants – How Does Temperature Affect Plant Growth? | Gardening Know How, Heat wave in the garden: How to identify and prevent heat stress in plants | OSU Extension Service)
• Prune flowering shrubs and trees that bloom on “old wood.” This can seem challenging at first, until you recognize the different species. It is ok to remove dead, diseased, or rubbing branches any time of year, but some trees may need treatment to close the wounds depending on their susceptibility to certain pathogens. This is also a good month to re-shape/shear new growth on boxwoods, so they don’t look shaggy. (see: Old Wood, New Buds: A Pruning Guide – Dyck Arboretum, Pruning Woody Plants | Cooperative Extension | University of Delaware)
• Harvest and rotate early season or short season vegetable crops. (see: DWD: Indiana Seasonal Crop Calendar, Leafy vegetables ready for short, cool growing season – Indiana Yard and Garden – Purdue Consumer HorticulturePurdue University Indiana Yard and Garden – Purdue Consumer Horticulture)
• This is the time of year to plant (or move) most aquatic plants. There are MANY invasive aquatic plants available for retail purchase. Please use the BONAP website, DNR website, native plant affiliated groups’ websites, and Soil and Water Conservation Districts’ websites to determine what NOT to buy. It’s always best to use native aquatic plants that are specifically native to our region. Invasive aquatics and non-local natives can do a lot of damage if they get out into the wild. (see: DNR: Aquatic Invasive Species – Plants, Indiana Aquatic Plant Rule – What You Need To Know, Harvesting Aquatic Plant: Timing and Techniques | Live to Plant, Aquatic Plants | | Wisconsin DNR)
• Stake tomatoes, large peppers, and any large or unruly plants. Advanced gardeners sometimes prune tomato plants. Plant sweet potatoes. (see: How to Prune Tomatoes: 9 Steps (with Pictures) – wikiHow)
• Finish sowing any native seeds you plan to grow out for mature Fall plants by mid-month.
• Continue to mow first year or weedy second year native seedings, as described for the month of May.
• June is a great time to visit local, state, and national parks as well as botanic gardens and arboretums to see the lushest green growth and blooms before the heat and subsequent yellowing of the hot summer sun sets in.

 

July

• This month is typically too hot and dry for any planting or seeding; the focus this month is weeding, watering and removing invasive species from the property.
• Sowing Fall crops in the garden beds begins later in the month; just make sure these seedlings do not dry out. (see: Zone 6 Vegetable Gardening — Vegetable Gardening News)
• Asses your yard or site; are there any areas that are just too dry to sustain a common landscape or turf grass? Consider using xeriscaping methods to save water while still creating an aesthetically pleasing habitat. Strongly consider using Indiana native plants accustomed to dry, sunny, areas and avoid planting anything on an invasive list. (see: pdf, Xeriscaping | Rainfall Management | Illinois Extension | UIUC)
• Monitor any areas on the property that could benefit from erosion control methods. Create a plan for blanketing, adding rock mulch and/or fill dirt, live stakes, planting, and seeding once temps are suitable. (see: Preventing Erosion | Cooperative Extension | University of Delaware, unl.edu/publication/g1307/2013/html/view, ErosionControl.indd)
• Catch up on some reading while sitting in the shade. (see: Publications Library | Xerces Society, Wild Ones Reading List Bookshop, Sustainable Landscaping Reading List, Books on Gardening for a Changing Climate – Penguin Random House Retail)
• Prune any dead, diseased, or rubbing branches on wood plants. Prune water sprouts and suckers, but avoid making any big cuts this time of year. (see: Can water sprouts and suckers be prevented on trees? | Extension)

 

August

• Continue to work on invasive plant removal, weeding, and watering during the hottest parts of the month.
• If temperatures start to cool or several days of rain are forecasted, begin Fall planting of natives in shaded or wet areas. Be sure to water these well if rain is not expected. (see: Planting Native Plants In The Fall – Natural Communities LLC, Native Garden Designs – Wild Ones)
• The first Fall crops of the season will begin to ripen and be ready for harvest. (see: Indiana crop harvest calendar – When fruit and vegetables are normally available and ready to pick in Indiana)
• Start collecting native seed for Fall storage and winter sowing. (see: Beginner’s Guide to Collecting Native Seeds for Autumn | Good Growing | Illinois Extension | UIUC, Collecting Native Seed)
• Continue to monitor for garden pests and diseases. Plants in established gardens with suitable soil conditions will have less issue with pests, but new gardens and landscapes with poor soil conditions should be monitored more frequently. Native beds shouldn’t have as many pest or disease problems, and whatever might occur can probably be handled by natural predators. However, be on the lookout for invasive insects, as well. If you see any invasive species, notify the IN DNR. (see: https://www.in.gov/dnr/entomology/pests-of-concern/, 22 Ways To Combat Garden Pests Naturally – Farmers’ Almanac)
• Leafy greens and fast-growing root crops like radishes can be sown from now until mid-September.
• Begin Fall plug, pot, and bare root planting of herbaceous perennials once temperatures cool to consistently below 85F; water regularly. Some years this isn’t possible until September.

 

September

• Now is the time to seed new lawn or fertilize any turf areas of the lawn to keep it healthy for kids, pets, and activities. Always avoid over fertilizing, as it can very easily runoff into waterways, causing a host of problems. Some lawns require Spring fertilization if certain issues are present. Consider limiting lawn to as little space as necessary in favor of flowering perennials, native grasses and sedges, shrubs, and trees, which benefit pollinators, control erosion, build soil, absorb carbon, and cool the environment. (see: AY-27)
• Plant Spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, grape hyacinth, allium, crocus, and ornamental iris. (see: Fall Bulbs: Flower Bulbs to Plant in Fall | The Old Farmer’s Almanac)
• Continue to harvest native seed and garden crops. Prepare each for storage accordingly. (see: Native Seed Hand Harvest Guidelines)
• Cutback new prairie growth from 12” to 4” for the final time to eliminate seedheads from annual weeds.
• If you have Reed Canary Grass or Phragmites (invasive water’s edge species) on your property, now is the time to cut and treat with chemical, as this will allow the greatest amount to translocate into the roots to kill the plant as it prepares for winter. (see: https://mc-iris.org/uploads/4/1/1/8/4118817/copy_of_calendar_of_control_-_portrait.pdf, Meet Indiana’s Bad Guys – INPS, methods-handbook.pdf)
• This is also the time most aquatic plants will start to die back. Clean up most die-back or dropped leaves in small, backyard ponds to avoid excess debris and muck. Double check to see if your tropical plants are on the invasive plant list; if so, destroy. Do not release any into waterways. (see: Fall Koi Pond Maintenance – Webb’s Water Gardens, DNR: Aquatic Invasive Species – Plants, Yellow-Floating-Heart_Whatcom.pdf)
• If you’re interested, look into food preservation methods, such as: canning, freezing, drying, or pickling to increase the shelf life of your harvest. (see: Home Page – National Center for Home Food Preservation)

 

 

October

• Fall cutback begins towards the end of the month and into November. Cutback most herbaceous ornamental plants. Grasses can be cut in Fall or Spring. Do not cut/prune shrubs until dormant in Winter (sometimes commercial landscapers will do this out of necessity to common landscape shrubs). Do not cut back native plants – they serve as Winter food and shelter for many insect and small mammal species. (see: Cut Back Perennials Now or Later? – Indiana Yard and Garden – Purdue Consumer HorticulturePurdue University Indiana Yard and Garden – Purdue Consumer Horticulture, Learn the Dos and Don’ts of Fall Garden Cleanup – My Indiana Home, Fall Garden Cleanup With Pollinators In Mind | The Old Farmer’s Almanac)
• October – December are great times for spreading native plant seed in the Fall. Many native species benefit from a cold stratification (overwintering), so a Fall seeding will aid in their germination the following Spring. Warm season grasses typically do better in the Spring, though. (see: Recommended Indiana-native Plants for Attracting Pollinators, pdf)
• Most garden crops should be finished ripening and harvested by the end of the month; some hardy, leafy greens can carry on until later in November. (see: The Fall Vegetable Garden – Indiana Yard and Garden – Purdue Consumer HorticulturePurdue University Indiana Yard and Garden – Purdue Consumer Horticulture)
• There are several options for leaf clean-up: Keep leaves off turf grass by raking and moving to another area of the yard (e.g. compost bin, woodland edge, raised vegetable or annual bed, or designated corner of the yard). If you use leaves as mulch, run them over a few times with a lawnmower to break them down into smaller parts. This helps the leaves break down into the soil faster and does not cause possible suffocation of garden plants underneath. Chopping leaves can disturb overwintering insects/pollinators, so a combination of leaving some leaves whole and moving them is recommended to assist pollinator populations. (see: Fall Garden Cleanup With Pollinators In Mind | The Old Farmer’s Almanac)
• Have bulb planting completed by Halloween. Watch for squirrels; they love tulips, especially! If you have a large area of bulbs planted, consider covering it with chicken wire, tacked into the ground with landscape staples. Remove it in the Spring, when the leaves start to emerge.
• October through early November is a good time to plant trees and shrubs. (see: Fall Good Time to Replace Trees and Shrubs – Indiana Yard and Garden – Purdue Consumer HorticulturePurdue University Indiana Yard and Garden – Purdue Consumer Horticulture)
• Finish planting bareroot ornamentals and native plugs by the end of the month. (see: Ask a Gardener: Can I Plant Perennials in the Fall? – Brooklyn Botanic Garden)
• As always, continue with invasive plant removal. Around this time of year, the honeysuckle will be easy to spot, as it holds its green leaves long after other plants have dropped theirs. (see: Scrub Hub: What invasive plant removal help is available in Indiana?)
• Take a hike! Check out any of the local parks, state parks, and arboretums to enjoy Fall foliage!

 

November

• Finish up Fall cutback.
• Finish tree and shrub planting.
• Finish harvesting any Fall crops and pull out any remaining annual beds.
• Finish collecting seed and have everything prepped for storage. (seed: Beginner’s Guide to Collecting Native Seeds for Autumn | Good Growing | Illinois Extension | UIUC, Collecting Native Seed)
• Continue leaf clean-up/maintenance.
• Put away or tip bird baths and rain barrels that might freeze and crack and put away any garden décor that could deteriorate if left out over winter. If you have an irrigation system set up, mid-October through early November is the time to drain it out. (see: Winter Landscaping Checklist: Indiana – McCarty Mulch)
• Button up any outdoor animal shelters that might experience drafts in the Winter.
• Winterize small ponds yourself or call a professional for larger ponds. (see: 5 Steps to Winterizing a Backyard Pond – Hobby Farms)
• When daytime temperatures are consistently below 55F, begin winter-sowing of native seeds. Some seeds, such as iris, spiderwort, and prairie dropseed require a 120-day winter stratification, so start those early! Sometimes this is not possible until December due to persistent high temperatures, though. Winter sowing involves seeding growing trays filled with soil and leaving them outside to freeze and thaw, as the seeds would naturally experience. Prairie Moon Nursery has a great guide to assist with determining when to seed almost all species. (see: Prairie Moon Nursery: How to Germinate Native Seeds)

 

December

• Continue to sow native seed. Have this finished by mid-January. (see: Direct Sowing of Tree Seeds – INPS, Growing Native Plants from Seed – INPS)
• Continue with invasive removal. Look for local plant walks/classes that focus on Winter identification based on bark, bud scales, growth form, and other markings besides leaves. (see: No Leaves, No Problem: Identifying Trees in Winter – Red-tail Land Conservancy)
• Don’t start shrub/small tree pruning until late February, even if plants appear dormant. It’s best to leave large tree pruning to professional arborists. You can harvest woody native plant material for erosion control at this time, though. (see: Bioengineering Materials Selection and Planting | Ernst Conservation Seeds, Live Stakes & Wattles | Minnesota DNR, When and How to Prune Large Trees – Midwest Gardening)
• Time to dig into books, videos, and websites to further your garden knowledge. (see: 10 Of The Best Gardening Books For 2024, Publications Library | Xerces Society, Wild Ones Reading List Bookshop, Sustainable Landscaping Reading List, Books on Gardening for a Changing Climate – Penguin Random House Retail, Chapter 01 – Basic Principles of Plant Structure, Growth and Development | Purdue University Indiana Accredited Horticulturist Program)
• There are several green industry Midwest trade shows held during the winter months. (see: Indiana Green Expo, 2025 Trade Shows – Midwest Groundcovers, Midwest Green – Ohio Green Industry Association, Top Landscaping Trade Shows 2024 [+Past Events], Top Landscaping Conferences To Attend In 2025 | Lawn Care Trade Shows)
• Sit back and relax. You’ve completed another successful year of gardening!